40th

On the verge of forty days and forty nights. Good old Jesus, he must have found whatever it was that he did quite an effort. It feels short, but I know I've been here for quite some time.

Yesterday evening I went to an amazing light and sound show with stellar projections and French turntablists and beatmakers. They were called The Scratch Bandits Crew. Bad name good music. They had an opera singer on first who was singing over edIT beats.

I saw a man I'd met twice with Annu too. Its odd, we keep bumping into each other. His name is Dr Singh and he is an Ayurvedic masseuse. He was telling me that I should go to his home town of Dharamshala, and that if I did his friends would help me out. However, he was also telling me about lonely women that he gives massages plus more to.

I then had to rush back to the hotel for my interview with Martin Caiger-Smith for a place on the Courtauld's curation course. Bits of the interview keep coming back to me and I feel even more embarrassed about them. Embarrassed of myself, to myself! For instance when he asked "Tell me about an exhibition you went to recently where the curation stood out?" And I spoke about a tiny little exhibition in the Experimental Art Gallery at IHC not having any wall texts. Not what he was looking for, I don't think. I can communicate complex ideas so much better in writing.

After that I met a man who, I think, is trying to scam me by 'starting a business with me' and a lovely, tired Israeli guy. We spoke about the freedom and opportunity of this country, the energy in the universe and how Hebrew letters relate to numbers etc. His name was Eli oh but he introduced himself as Leo. L-E-O.

Second day

Third night, second proper day, second hotel - Hare Krishna guesthouse - still Paharganj.

I went for a massive walk around Delhi today to acquaint myself with more than Connaught place and to change some traveller's cheques. The acquainting went a lot better than the changing. I walked from north to south Delhi and saw a lot of the tourist sites and lots of crazy Indian sights. For eg, people cycling the wrong way down the road, army men with ak47s sleeping on traffic islands, men fixing walls on scaffolding made of branches and dogs crossing 4 lanes of traffic, why? To get to the other side. I also saw cops pissing in the street and chipmunks raiding bins. However, after my 4 hour meander and first metro ride (cheap at four times the price - 11p for a 3 stop single) when I got to the bank they told me that only Thomas Cook is changing traveller's cheques. Apparently lots of fakes are going round. I really hope Thomas Cook are changing them because otherwise I'm screwed.

I was warned that I may not enjoy Paharganj as it is pretty seedy, however, now that I have acclimatised to the pace I can take the best bits - the street food, the banter, the prices, the location - and overlook the dodgy bits - the constant offers of drugs and the scamming. If I stay here for the whole time I will be high-fiving people as I walk down the street, I'm already seeing the same Indians each day. Maybe I can think up some tourist scams of my own.